How to Boat Camp the Russian River - SFGate.com

How to Boat Camp the Russian River - SFGate.com

Originally written for Sunset.com, this article was syndicated by the San Francisco Chronicle’s website, SFGate.

No more excuses—it’s time to check Russian River canoe camping off your bucket

list

ALISON VAN HOUTEN

Lined with lush stands of Coast Redwoods and Sonoma County’s seemingly

ubiquitous vineyards, the lazy backwater of Northern California’s Russian River is a

must-visit destination for any nature lover. Follow the watercourse from the inland

valleys all the way out to Jenner, where the river spills into the Pacific, for a crash

course in wine country’s allure. No canoe? Don’t fret. Myriad outfitters and

campgrounds mean there are options for every adventurer.

When to Go

The dog days of summer are a safe bet. However, early autumn can be equally

enjoyable: The weather is still pleasant, but a fraction of the people will be on the

water come September and early October. And because seasonal dams erected

near Johnson’s Beach and Vacation Beach usually come down after Labor Day, fall

paddlers don’t have to portage boats, either. (It’s wise to bring a lightweight,

portable kayak dolly in the summer.) During the winter months, storms can swell

the river, creating strong currents and hidden obstacles. Suppliers may not open

shop again until mid-May or later, so June through September is the ideal window

for planning trips in advance.

Who to Go With

Outfitters can set you up with anything from kayaks to tour-ready stand-up paddle

boards, although a classic canoe is the best choice for those toting large coolers.

Forestville stalwart Burke’s Canoe Trips (from $68; burkescanoetrips.com) have it

dialed in. They’ll turn you loose with a canoe (or kayak) plus paddles and life jackets,

and shuttle you back to your vehicle in a big white school bus afterward. For a more

structured experience, hire guides from Healdsburg’s Russian River Adventures

(from $45; russianriveradventures.com) or River’s Edge Kayak & Canoe Trips (from

$50; riversedgekayakandcanoe.com) on the upper section of the river. Keen on

getting some river time on a stand-up paddle board? SUP Odyssey east of

Guerneville offers hourly and multi-day rentals (from $25; supodyssey.com).

What to Bring

Although it’s feasible to grab last-minute items in Forestville or Guerneville (Big

Bottom Market is a favorite for day-one lunch), stock up on food and camping gear

before you exit U.S. 101. In addition to the essentials—sunscreen, dry clothes,

sunglasses, and plenty of food and water—be sure to bring swimming gear. You’ll

find innumerable spots for a quick dip, from naturally formed jumping rocks to rope

swings fashioned by the locals. Bring bungee cords to secure everything should

your boat tip as you clamber out. Water shoes and dry bags will also make your trip

more enjoyable, as will binoculars.

What You’ll See

Great blue herons and hawks are among the most common birds in the area, and

Western pond turtles are frequently glimpsed too (identify them by their mottled

heads and dark-patterned shells as they sun themselves on fallen trees). Keep your

eyes peeled for stealthier species, such as bobcats, mountain lions, and even

elusive red foxes. And don’t forget to look down—in the water, endangered Coho

salmon swim alongside countless aquatic species, including rare river otters.

Where to Go

Over 100 miles long, the Russian River is most digestible if you focus on the lower

section—especially for weekend warriors. While you can set out anywhere with boat

access, make sure to have a plan in place as cell service on the North Coast is spotty

at best. If you have two vehicles able to haul boats, meet in the town of Jenner and

set up a two-car relay system. Be sure to hit up the Jenner Visitors Center just off

Highway 1 (707/865-9757) to brush up on your local knowledge before embarking.

Leave another vehicle (or get dropped off) in Guerneville, where you’ll have your

pick of Johnson’s Beach, Guerneville River Park, or the less formal Vacation Beach,

about two miles south of town, for unloading. Those on a prolonged schedule can

start upstream in Forestville—Wohler Bridge and Steelhead Beach Regional Park

both have suitable launches—or even Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach if

you’re feeling ambitious. However, you may have to portage boats near Johnson’s

Beach or Vacation Beach. Meandering downstream, you’ll pass an abundance of

private docks. Somewhere around 90 percent of the Russian River watershed is

privately owned, so respect private property signs as you get a sneak peek of this

wonderful zone. And don’t be surprised if a passing paddler gives you a friendly

blast of water—it’s a river tradition! Refuel on the go as the leisurely summer

current conveys your boat, or sidle up to any old sandbar at lunchtime.

Where to Roll out Your Sleeping Bag

Camping is another story. All overnighters must sleep in designated sites, but the

proliferation of campgrounds along the waterfront means it’s no problem. We

recommend camping at River Bend Resort in Forestville for the first night of a multiday

journey (from $56, 2-night minimum on weekends; riverbendresort.net). You can

even sleep in a cabin or tricked-out bus refurbished with reclaimed wood. Prefer to

rough it? Ditch the boats at Schoolhouse Canyon Campground’s private beach and

cross River Road to their tent sites (from $40, first come, first served or 2-night

minimum for reservations; schoolhousecanyon.com). Downstream in Duncans Mills,

Casini Ranch Family Campground (from $51, 2-night minimum May-Sept.;

casiniranch.com) has several beachfront sites you can practically paddle up to.

Situated right on the water on a huge horseshoe bend, it’s a good hitching post for

a night or two if you have a yen for amenities like a general store, guided hikes, and

weekly bonfires on the beach during high season. For a more natural experience

(read: no plumbing), continue on to picturesque Willow Creek Environmental

Campground ($25; first come, first served; https://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=451). It’s

not much farther to the boat ramp by Jenner Visitors Center, which is a good thing

because strong winds often pick up late in the day and you’ll want to make it back

to the estuary early. Remember, you’ll need time to retrieve your vehicle and refuel

at one of the Bodega coast’s numerous chowder shacks on the drive home. Plan on

4-5 hours of actual paddling each day (or up to 7 hours if traveling by canoe), but

allow plenty of time for distractions. That’s why you’re here, isn’t it?

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